When Mihai asks me to accompany him on a climbing trip to coach him and his family, the destination is easy to find.
Turkey has many cliffs developed in the last 20 years. Some very accessible and others more remote. Several trips have allowed me to discover them and determine which ones best suit our group, climbing between 6a and 8a.
About fifteen days are available to us and we decide to spend 8 days around Antalya, in Geyik Bayiri and Citdibi, then 5 days towards Olympos.
Turkey has many cliffs developed in the last 20 years, some very accessible and others more remote.Caroline Minvielle
|Line scouting in Kulluin|
Climbing in Geyik Bayiri is what can be described as “easy”: the site is 40 minutes from Antalya international airport, many accommodations are available, the topo, although more completely up to date , provides essential information, the sectors are many and varied, the routes are well equipped (even sometimes too much!) and of all levels. It is then a question of choosing the sector which will best suit the group.
|Leon warming up|
|An overview of Korridor|
We start with Korridor, a recently developed sector which has the great advantage of having two orientations. The climbing is vertical on free grips that stand out, rules or knobs, and the quotations rather nice. Nothing better to get your feet wet!
|Mihai in a 6c+|
The temperatures in this month of October are quite high in Geyik Bayiri and we clearly have to climb in the shade. The beautiful south face of Sarkit, Magara, Anatolia catches our eye but, apart from night, it won't be for this stay.
The shaded areas are not legion. The reference and safe bet in case of strong heat, it is Trebenna, exposed due north. The shapes are incredible, gigantic pillars in balance and small columns. Only, the rock has undergone the successive passages of hungry climbers and the routes, despite large flights, are often quite bouldery. You have to choose well! We will still spend two days there because Mihai and Michel had their respective projects: “Rattle Snake Saloon” 7b and “Latte Tsunami” 6c, two superb routes in their level.
|The pillars of the Trebenna sector|
Some other routes worth seeing in Trebenna:
- “Fight the Butcher” 7a
- Lycian Highway 7b
- “No Money no Dance” 7c
- “Yin Yang” 7c
|Maïa spots her first 8a because that's also climbing!|
We also climb two days on a recent sector passing in the shade in the afternoon: Ruzgarli Bahce. The foot of the routes, a large gravel esplanade, is ultra comfortable and the shapes of the rock are again quite exceptional! Maïa finds her project “Animasyon Otomatik” 7c+ there but almost all the other routes are to be done. A sector which, at first glance, seems small and innocuous, turned out to be very pleasant to climb and with a high density of beautiful routes, from 6b to 8a, with at least one collector route in each level. It's a nice surprise!
|Mihai on one side…|
|…then on the other side of the beautiful bow of “Uzun Ihsan” 7b|
We still have a day of climbing around Antalya and we want to change the landscape. That's good, I dream of discovering the Citdibi cliff, 40 minutes from Geyik Bayiri. At the start, I had some concerns about the level of the routes for our whole group. But the main Kanyon sector is, as its name suggests, a canyon with an imposing face of 150 m of cant on small columns and in front a slab of 25-30 m well supplied with grips. It's ideal!
|It's up to you to spot the climber!|
Delia is thus introduced to climbing and could almost, once at the belay, clap her son's hand while he is climbing a 6c on the other side. Pretty magical!
|Délia and Léon chat while Kilian climbs in the background|
On the beautiful routes, we will remember:
- almost all the central lanes of the slab
- “Gonul Gozu” 6c+
- “Cupidon Right” 7a when the oppression of the canyon will be felt too much!
- “Jim Beam” 7c
There are certainly a large number of other collector routes but for that, we will have to come back!
|The atmosphere of Kanyon de Citdibi|
Life in Türkiye is sweet. It is punctuated with Turkish breakfasts, those that will stall you for a whole day if you try to finish everything on offer and, when your forearms are exhausted, with an evening restaurant. Our base camp quickly became Alps Star, at the entrance to Geyik Bayiri. The manager is very welcoming, speaks French and offers good food, very affordable. We were also delighted with the welcome from Tobias and Duygu to Josito. It's nice to change the atmosphere and eat a more European and vegetarian-oriented cuisine. We feel that they have the experience of climbers and we appreciate it! And when it comes to talking about climbing or the last equipped routes, these two enthusiasts are obviously there!
|Group photo at Alps Star HQ|
We continue our climbing journey in a heavenly place: Olympos. The area to visit for climbing is Cennet: a smooth wall dotted with holes and crimps. Everyone finds a path to gnaw on and, despite the fatigue at the end of the stay, we spend 4 days there. What is certain is that the last forces have been thrown into battle! Few regrets to have!
|The new game setting|
|Michel in “The Trooper” 7a|
Access to the Cennet sector has its particularity, along the beach of Cirali until reaching the massif, passing the ruins of the ancient city of Olympos. Swimming is very welcome after the efforts made. As for life at Cirali, it is simple and pleasant, punctuated by the sound of the waves and the meowing of cats asking for a few caresses or just a comfortable place on a soft cushion that has just been warmed up.
|and new approach|
Finally, a sight that is worth the trip, just next to Cirali, is to observe the Chimeras. These are flames coming out of the ground as if by magic in a contrasting setting between bare rocks and pine forests overlooking the sea. In reality, methane escapes from cracks in small cavities and ignites on contact with the air. We advise you to favor the sunset to bring a mystical atmosphere to this scene.
|Maïa and Leon, hypnotized by the Chimeras certainly and by their trip too|