When Mihai asks me to accompany him on a climbing trip to coach him and his family, the destination is easy to find.
Turkey has many cliffs developed in the last 20 years. Some very accessible and others more remote. Several trips have allowed me to discover them and determine which ones best suit our group, climbing between 6a and 8a.
About fifteen days are available to us and we decide to spend 8 days around Antalya, in Geyik Bayiri and Citdibi, then 5 days towards Olympos.
Continue reading « Voyage escalade perf en Turquie »
" Happy is he who can with a vigorous wing
To soar towards the luminous and serene fields"
Continue reading « Dans la tête d’un base-jumper »
There are still stars in my eyes thinking back to that fall day. The kind of day that Haute-Savoie sometimes offers us in October, you just have to know how to seize it. Last year I took the opportunity to spend a beautiful day at altitude in Digital Crack. This year, the Fiz are dry and still taunt me with its high walls. 3 years that I want to visit the wall of Anterne, since I live at the foot.
Continue reading « Les Yeux dans le Bleu à la Paroi d’Anterne »
What I am going to tell you corresponds to my thoughts and feelings experienced over the past two months during the process of working and linking Classe Croute, 8b. It's a work process that I discover in these terms and which can correspond to any climber who reaches his limit and tries to push it back, whether in 6b or 9a.
It all starts on the New Year's weekend that we spend at Mollans, a cliff that I finally discover. After 3 full days of testing, I got to the end of Classe Pieds, a solid 7c+ which could well be worth 8a given the high level of resistance required. This 1er January, the conditions are perfect, we are the only ones in this sector Céline and I and we each do our routes side by side: Classe Pieds for me and Classe Croute for Céline! In short, nothing to say about the ideal nature of this day.
Continue reading « Limites mentales, les hauts et les bas du travail d’une voie »
Xiketeta, 30 m of vertical or very slightly overhanging wall, small two fingers, single fingers, resistance and above all a lot of technique... In short, a route for little fingers, a route for girls and a route especially in my style! Initially rated 8b for almost 3 years, the rating was revised downward following the homogenization of all of Margalef and even all of Spain(!). Well, this one deserves its discount but it nonetheless remains a good 8a+ and above all a magnificent route; opened by local Vicent Palau, as often for the most beautiful ones on the site!
Continue reading « Xiketeta, je te tiens! »
A week of climbing in the Peak District and fairly decent weather allowed me to discover some of the mythical grit sectors, especially Stanage!
The reputation of this sector is well established, the blocks are high and often difficult, the landings sometimes a little exposed and the rock, with this particular texture, requires some time to adapt and good positioning! In short, you have to be strong technically and above all mentally!
Continue reading « One week in the Peak District »