5 years ago, when I went to visit Greece by car with Claire to cut between the two years of preparation, we went to Meteora, marveling at these rock formations. I said to myself: “We'll have to come back for a Kalymnos-Meteora trip”. Kalymnos is done.
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| Varlaam Monastery Photo: Seb Laurent |
So we continue the trip in a small group, Seb, Salomé, Marion and me.
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| Agios Nikolaos Monastery Photo: Seb Laurent |
What changes compared to Kalymnos:
– cats turned into dogs
– the equipment of the routes is a bit more spaced out, the rock more doubtful and the grades… different!
– we eat even better and for even less money
– the ambiance and atmosphere of the place is completely different…
- it's raining !
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| Pillar of Dreams not really in condition… |
In short, despite the rain of the first night and a goal at the foot of the moss-green Pillar of Dreams, we reconsidered our objectives and opted for Egg Dance.
This 130 m route is characterized by a final length passing from one conglomerate tower to another. It's difficult to get an idea of the size of the floor span... We'll see up there.
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| Marion in the first length Photo: Seb Laurent |
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| The cluster at the first relay! Photo: Seb Laurent |
For this first route, Seb, as a good experienced guide, takes all three of us in a string at the end of his rope! We enjoy climbing without worrying too much about equipment.
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| The cluster attacks the second length Photo: Seb Laurent |
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| Seb in the wide crack of L3 |
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| While at R2, life is good! |
Then comes this famous enjambment step. Seb, big, is feeling rather bad and that doesn't reassure us! At the head or at the top, it ultimately doesn't change much. If you fall, you hit one side or the other.
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| Seb after the critical passage |
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| And glad I didn't fall! |
Honestly, I've never been so scared while climbing! I sent the wrong leg (the right) so that I found myself in a split above the void with the wind making me pitch! A good, long moment... before taking the courage and strength in both hands to bring the second leg back without turning the wrong way!
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| The famous passage Photo: Seb Laurent |
Little advice, sending the left leg first allows you to bring the next one back much easier than the opposite!!
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| Arrival at the summit while Salomé waits her turn Photo: Seb Laurent |
Marion and Salomé are doing well on this passage despite some sensations for them too. Then we finish with a nice steep crack before reaching the summit. For a first route in Meteora, we are not disappointed!
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| Lolotte lessons before the reminder Photo: Seb Laurent |
The following days bring us rain. We test the local restaurants and discover the address not to be missed: Plakias in Kastraki. Very warm hostel where we returned four evenings in a row and where each time we were entitled to special little touches. On the fourth evening, we were offered dessert, wine, two digestives per person and the smile of our hosts.
We take the opportunity to visit the Aghia Triada monastery which served as the setting for “For Your Eyes Only”. After watching James Bond the day before, this visit has a completely different flavor for us!
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| The monastery of Aghia Triada |
More rain and this time we opt for a rind site near Kastraki: Mouzaki. Colos on slopes, quite intense and beautiful flights on slabs. Here again we say to ourselves that the time of the ways in Kalymnos is long gone.
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| A wet ride… |
Finally, we are treated to a gray but dry day. Not all the towers are passable but we find our happiness in Doupiani. With Seb we set off on Duett 7a, 155m while Marion and Salomé tackle the Doupiani ridge, Pantokratoras 6a+, 125m.
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| Salomé in one of Doupiani's typical lengths |
As usual, the points are not close, the rock requires attention but the route is generally well equipped. Points at the level of hard steps and space at the end of lengths in general. An error in reading the topo at the pitch in 7a takes us into a dihedral variant that is noticeably as difficult or even more difficult and we find our route again in the last, barely mossy pitch.
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| Starting from L3 in 6c Photo: Seb Laurent |
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| The dihedral of our fourth length in 7a/b |
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| Not much in the hands in L4 Photo: Seb Laurent |
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| Fortunately the last length is easier! |
We end this day with the ascent of The Bell via the Pathfinder 6b+ route, 100m. Three pitches which rise crescendo in difficulty. Seb and Marion pass in front and we follow in reversible with Salomé to find the four of us at the top of this pretty route.
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| At the top of The Bell |
We set off the same evening towards Athens with the aim of climbing Mavrosouvala but again, the rain took us directly to the Acropolis museum which was a superb alternative.
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| The Doupiani face with two climbers on its ridge |
While waiting for the plane, we visit the small site of Vrachokipos, friendly and annoying, close to the airport but which hardly competes with all the other sites and beautiful routes that we have encountered over the last three weeks.
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| The Great Monastery |
The weather prevented us from taking full advantage of the routes offered by Meteora but we were nevertheless able to immerse ourselves in the enchanting setting of the place. All you have to do is come back!
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