When we think of Jordan, we quickly think of Petra and its temple sculpted by the Nabataeans, the Dead Sea and the composition of its water so laden with salt that it becomes impossible to sink or even dive, or Wadi Rum and its desert dotted with red sandstone towers. It's good […]
It is indeed Wadi Rum and its very special climbing that I would like to talk to you about here. The sandstone, compact sand in short, sculpted by water and the wind, offers ever more spectacular shapes: from small columns to lunules via taffoni, these large alcoves which require recovery in 6a pitches, crimps in steep walls or perfect cracks. The climbing is rich there and requires time to adapt to tame this very special rock.
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| The Wadi Rum desert |
What can I say other than the atmosphere in this desert? It's certainly why you come to Wadi Rum. The stretches of sand as far as the eye can see, punctuated by these 'djebels', leave you dreaming and pondering. You reach a different level of self-presence, and the break with everyday life is automatic and effortless. It's definitely an experience worth living.
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| flowery desert |
A few routes made during this period which needed to be extended, of course!
The Beauty, 6b max, 200 m then summit of Djebel Um Ejil
A classic among the classics. The approach is already a journey in itself. Get lost in the canyons to finally reach this perfect cracked dihedral that is just waiting for one thing: to be climbed! The perfect opportunity to perfect your dulfer technique.
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| L1 from The Beauty |
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| L5 from The Beauty |
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| L5 from The Beauty |
Flight of Fancy, 6b max, 180 m on the east face of Djebel Rum
History of balancing the muscles for the practice of the dulfer after a day in The Beauty!
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| L3 from Flight of Fancy |
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| L4 from Flight of Fancy |
Merlin's Wand, 6b max, 230m in Barrah Canyon
A crack that scratches this great wall of Barrah Canyon, lost in the desert. Another classic in the crack that does not require knowing how to get your hands stuck thanks to the many rulers located around the crack!
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| Merlin's Wand is the crack on the left that scratches the wall... |
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| Merlin's Wand L4 |
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| Merlin's Wand L6 |
lion heart, 6b+ max, 350m
Crack this time, real, rather obligatory. Superb, sustained, in an exceptional setting, a route to do absolutely!
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| The Lion Heart approach |
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| Lion Heart's L2 |
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| Lion Heart L4 |
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| Lion Heart L5 |
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| View of Khazali from the top of Abu Aina Tower |
Desert rats in the shade, 6b max, 230m on Al Maghrar
A way lost to the south, in the desert where only a few shepherds have taken up residence. Mandatory crack, off-width passages and a classic taffoni slab finish. A really beautiful and demanding route!
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| L2 of Desert rats in the shade |
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| L3 of Desert rats in the shade |
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| L6 of Desert rats in the shade |
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| L7 from Desert rats in the shade |
In the sandstone of the wind, 7a max, 300m to Khazali North
3 first pitches of anthology with in particular this splitter overhanging in 7a worthy of Indian Creek. Compulsory hand and foot jamming! Slab end lengths on taffoni require care and experience on this pebble style.
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| The fantastic splitter of the L2 of the sandstone of the wind |
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| L3 from Sandstone of the Wind |
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| The taffonis of L5 from In the sandstone of the wind |
Raid Mit the Camel, 7a max, 450 m on the east face of Djebel Rum
A wide route on the east face of Djebel Rum which alternates difficult pitches that are easily protected then easy pitches in the taffoni fields which involve much more. Special mention for this length on the scales of the camel where you necessarily pass on its back!
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| L3 from Raid Mit the Camel |
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| L4 of Raid Mit the Camel straddling the scales! |
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| L6 from Raid Mit the Camel |
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| L12 from Raid Mit the Camel |
queen of the desert, 7a+ max, 450 m fully equipped on the East face of Djebel Rum
A recent, fully-equipped route that almost looks like rest, mentally anyway, and which allows you to reach the top of the east face rather quickly via vertical pitches then slabs. Adhesion is indeed well tested!
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| L3 from Queen of the Desert |
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| L4 from Queen of the Desert |
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| L11 from Queen of the Desert |
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| L11 from Queen of the Desert: the flat hand theme and we push! |
first kiss, 7a max, 230 m on the east face of Djebel Rum
A very recent route, equipped, which offers an atypical climb at the end of the first pitch: climb a smooth tube 1.60 m in diameter by 5 m high! We continue by going up in the Great Siq to go down again by the reminders of Hammad's route which implies a pretty varied race.
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| First Kiss L1 |
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| First Kiss L2 |
Finally, we must not forget the Bedouin roads, these often slightly climbing hikes which allow access to emblematic peaks by the most ingenious and less steep passages. We have done the classic crossing of Jebel Rum from west to east by the Nabataean way. 6 hours of walk that leave memories marked by the immensity and the privilege of evolving alone on these sandstone domes.
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| Ascent by the Nabataean way |
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| Descent on the domes |
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| The royal road! |
If you feel like it, I am organizing a trip to Wadi Rum in the fall of 2023. All the information can be found on the Travels and internships page: Travels and internships – Obsession Minérale (obsessionminerale.com)
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| See you soon ! |
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