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Category: Multipitch
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2026 : Voeux et nouveautés escalade
Climbing trip to Taghia, Morocco
“Gîte Jamal, in Taghia!? What's this, you don't have an address? The airport policeman gets angry.
– No, this is the only information I have about where I will be staying for the next two weeks… Sorry. »
Then, with exemplary kindness, muttering behind his Plexiglas, he stamps the sesame and throws me my passport without an ounce of consideration.
OK, note to myself, if I ever come back to Morocco, I will have some semblance of a slightly more precise address to provide to the cops when I arrive in the country, like an Ibis hotel or something like that. For this trip, I am accompanied by Clem, with whom I have already shared so many adventures. I'm super excited to tackle this climbing trip to Morocco with him to climb and discover the legendary walls of the Atlas.
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Climbing trip in Jordan
When we think of Jordan, we quickly think of Petra and its temple sculpted by the Nabataeans, the Dead Sea and the composition of its water so laden with salt that it becomes impossible to sink or even dive, or Wadi Rum and its desert dotted with red sandstone towers. It's good […]
It is indeed Wadi Rum and its very special climbing that I would like to talk to you about here. The sandstone, compact sand in short, sculpted by water and the wind, offers ever more spectacular shapes: from small columns to lunules via taffoni, these large alcoves which require recovery in 6a pitches, crimps in steep walls or perfect cracks. The climbing is rich there and requires time to adapt to tame this very special rock.
Climbing in the Dolomiti di Brenta
Here is the video of a stay in the Dolomiti di Brenta, one of the many massifs that make up the Dolomites.
Climbers: Maxime Richard and Maxime Poirier
Routes taken or attempted:
Cima Farfalla – Die frau ist der ruine des alpinismus (250m, 7c)
Campanile Basso – Preuss (400m, 5c)
Crozon di Brenta – Super Maria (1000m, 6b)
The Zutopists at the Petite Aiguille D'Ansabère
Here is the video of a multi-pitch outing on the Petite Aiguille d'Ansabère in the Pyrenees.
Located in the Lescuns valley, the route is semi-equipped but large sections must be protected with nuts. The length is 300m for a maximum difficulty of 7a. Note the presence of a de-escalation/pendulum in a not very popular place which must be anticipated by the second! In short, a magnificent route, with character, in a superb and uncrowded location.
Continue reading « Les Zutopistes à la Petite Aiguille D’Ansabère »
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El Topo or behind the scenes of a great effort and its hazards
El Topo… This route has been in my head for more than 2 years. Opened for artificial in 1981 by Marco Troussier, it was refitted in 2008 for freestyle.
Continue reading « El Topo ou les coulisses d’un bel effort et ses aléas »
Dihedral Philip Flamm on the North Face of the Civetta
Here is the video of the ascent of the dihedral Philipp Flamm (900m, 6b) on the North Face of the Civetta. One of my first bivouacs in full wall.
Climbers: Maxime Richard and Maxime Poirier
Continue reading « Dièdre Philip Flamm en Face Nord de la Civetta »
Vinatzer-Messner route at the Marmolada
The doors of the C3 are wide open and our belongings are piled up happily in the car park of the small village of Malga Ciapela, at the foot of the Queen of the Dolomites, the Marmolada.
It's the beginning of our Italian roadtrip, the organization is slowly coming together and for the moment, every time we need a carabiner, we have to take out three bags to get it. We designate one door per area of activity: the left for the bivouac and clothing, the right for food and finally, the trunk for climbing and free flight equipment.
Inside the head of a base jumper
" Happy is he who can with a vigorous wing
To soar towards the luminous and serene fields"
Charles Baudelaire
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